Tools for taking a pattern from a garment
As well as an appropriate tape measure, (see Chapter 5), a selection of the tools shown in figure 7.12 will be needed when making patterns.
Figure 7.12 Useful tool for making patterns and toiles. © Images Author Photography Peter Greenland
1. Set squares, small and large – used to align warp and weft grains in fabrics and for drafting patterns.
2. Protractor – useful to check the angle of a particular seam against the straight grain.
3. A set of French Curves – very useful for drawing a smooth armhole or neckline curve.
4. Sharp pencil H or HB to draft the pattern – a sharp pencil with a hard lead is essential for accuracy when making patterns.
5. Contrasting coloured thread – used to mark the straight grain and weft on the garment.
6. Fine entomological pins3 or fine beading needles – to pin into seams to hold the coloured threads in place.
7. Transparent rulers marked with centimetres – for drawing straight seams and marking seam allowances on patterns.
Three methods for creating patterns for toiles
• ‘Join the dots’
This method involves taking many measurements from each section of a garment, plotting their positions on a sheet of paper, and then ‘joining the dots’ to give the outline of each panel (see figure 7.13a). This is very time-consuming method as many measurements are needed but, with patience and time, great accuracy can be achieved using this method.4 It is a good method where an exact replica of a garment is to be made.
• Draping fabric
Fine muslin or semi-transparent fabric is draped inside a garment (see figure 7.13b). The shape of each panel is then either traced on to the muslin with a pencil or by a line of running stitches.5 Note: if using a pencil be very careful that you do not pierce the muslin and mark the garment underneath. If in doubt use the running stitch method (see figure 7.22a). This is a good method to use when making a pattern for toile to be used as a fitting tool when padding a bust form or mannequin.
• Tissue paper templates
Tissue paper templates are a useful way to quickly replicate features in a garment when a full toile is not needed. Areas of the garment can be quickly traced onto tissue paper and used as a quick pattern. The yoke pattern (see figure 7.3) was made using this method. With a complex garment a combination of all of the methods may be needed in order to create an accurate pattern.
Figure 7.13a Join the dots method. Image courtesy of Historic Royal Palaces.
Figure 7.13b Draping method. © Author.
Individual pattern pieces are net, i.e, without any seam allowance added. The patterns are placed onto fabric matching the straight grain lines on the pattern with the straight grain of the fabric and drawn round using a sharp pencil. The seams allowances are then marked around the shapes on the fabric only. When joining the seams having the pencil lines as a guide for stitching will give a much more accurate toile.
Making a pattern for a toile
Measurements for a toile to help when padding a mannequin or bust form should, where possible, be taken from the inside of the garment as this would have been the closest fit to the body of the wearer. However, for a toile of a complex garment with overlapping layers, measurements will often need to be taken from both inside and outside of the garment. Decorative features, such as draping, can sometimes restrict the fit of an inner bodice. If a garment has a loose lining it may be more efficient and cause less strain on the garment to take the measurements from the outside and then scale them down to correspond to the overall circumference measurements taken from the inside.
Whatever method is chosen to make a pattern, before taking any measurements it is essential to support the garment with tissue paper so that safe access to the areas from which measurements will be taken is possible without causing any damage to other parts of the garment. If taking measurements from the outside, close any fastenings and use scrunched acid-free tissue paper puffs and rollsto fill out the void inside the garment, creating an approximation of its shape when worn. If taking measurements from the inside, use acidfree tissue paper puffs and rolls to support the areas of the garment around the panel from which measurements are being taken. For example, in order to move the front panels of a front-opening bodice out of the way while you are measuring the inside of the back panels it will be necessary to put tissue paper rolls inside and around the sleeves. This will allow the fronts to be safely laid back over the sleeves without crushing them (see figure 7.14). The puffs and roles will need to be repositioned for each panel being measured.
Figure 7.14 Access to the back panels of this dress is achieved by turning out the fronts over the sleeves. Tissue paper rolls and puffs under the fronts protect the sleeves underneath. Courtesy of the Hurry family. Photography Robbie Pettigrew.
When taking a pattern of a garment with heavily beaded decoration, placing a layer of thin polyester wadding covered with a smooth, soft fabric, or acid-free tissue paper under the garment will protect the beading from being crushed while measurements are being taken.
Whichever method you choose to make your toile the most essential skill to learn is maintaining a ‘light touch’ when taking measurements from the garment. It is very important not to press down hard to avoid crushing delicate layers of fabric underneath.
Once the garment is safely in position, place a sheet of smooth tissue paper or plain pattern drafting paper on the table next to it. Avoid using professional ‘spot and cross’6 pattern paper as the printed spots and crosses can be distracting. Using a sharp pencil, draw a vertical line on the paper to represent the straight grain of the fabric and a horizontal line at right angles to represent the weft grain. These lines will be the anchor, the main reference, against which all measurements will be plotted.