THE COLLECTIONS
The classic themes of the Autumn/Winter season are returning with deeper hues and grungier looks making a strong comeback.
At Dior’s A/W24 runway, make-up was carefully curated as an homage to the glamour of 1970s Italian movie stars, yet with a modern, editorial twist. Under the guidance of creative and image director Peter Philips, models displayed a polished and ladylike aesthetic, with a focus on strong, elegant simplicity. The make-up featured a radiant complexion achieved with Dior Forever Glow Star Filter, and a subtle yet striking pop of fluorescent pink pigment at the eyes, inspired by the Miss Dior heritage and Marc Bohan’s iconic scarf prints. Notably absent was mascara, a deliberate choice to maintain a runway-ready, high-fashion edge, while lips were kept glossy with Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil. The hair, styled by Guido Palau, featured sleek, low chignons-—hairstyles reminiscent of cinematic elegance, emphasizing a powerful，，polished silhouette. The overall look was a blend of controlled refinement and subtle spontaneity, perfectly complementing lMaria Grazia Chiuri’s collection, which paid tribute to Dior’s legacy with a fresh and contemporary twist.
Cool Metals
It seems that there is a resurgence of metallic make-up, offering a sophisticated alternative to glitter with a dramatic yet refined flair. When working with these icy hues, we recommend focusing on a single metallic shade-like golds and coppers, which flatter warm complexions, or silvers for a nostalgic nod to the ’90s—and blending it softly across the eyelids. Anchoring the look with mascara or using metallic tones as a thin, chic eyeliner are simple ways to embrace the trend. Charlotte Tilbury’s backstage work at Harris Reed featured luxurious silver and gold hues, emphasizing maximalist glamour with rich, opulent textures. For a similar effect at home, layer the metallic color using your fingertips or a dense eyeshadow brush to ensure an intense, sparkling finish.
Slicked Over
An editorial favorite, the slicked, wet-like aesthetic is a staple at fashion week. From Helmut Lang’s sleek crowns to Prabal Gurung’s artfully damp strands splayed across foreheads, and Area’s low, polished ponytails, this glossy aesthetic offered a modern, dewy twist on classic styles. Collina Strada added a playful touch with star and angel wing embellishments crafted from extensions, seamlessly integrated into the slick designs. Seen across shows like Erdem, Richard Quinn, and Valentino, the trend ranged from vintage Hollywood updos to contemporary, sleek buns. Achieving this look is all about using the right products—hair gel for that ultra-shiny, wet effect, or a combination of hair oils and hairspray for a glowing finish. To keep hair healthy amidst the product overload, investing in a detox shampoo is crucial. This wet-hair look, versatile and effortlessly chic, is set to be a lasting trend.
Wink of Pink
Pink hues have taken a bold, audacious turn, moving away from their traditionally sweet connotations. Designers Bach Mai and Lou Dallas showcased asymmetrical, organic shapes that redefine pink as a daring statement. This season’s pink is grungier, with sharp lines and striking shades, particularly when paired with loaded mascara for a modern ‘60s vibe. For those new to incorporating pink into their make-up routine, start by using it as an alternative to classic black eyeliner for a subtle yet unexpected touch of color. You can also add a metallic pink highlighter to the upper eyelid for a soft introduction to this trend. A simple dab of cream blush or pink pigment on the inner corners of the eyes can instantly elevate your look.
Cranberry Chic
Embrace the deep, moody allure of burgundy-brown and cranberry lip shades for this Autumn Winter season. Seen at Dreaming Eli and Anna Sui, these rich tones varied from matt and glossy finishes to ombre effects with lighter pinks at the center, offering a modern twist on the ’90s trend. Cranberry hues also transitioned to cheeks and eyelids, providing a vibrant alternative to traditional sunset shades. For beginners, start by applying a cranberry or burgundy lip color in a sheer layer, then build intensity gradually. Pair it with a neutral eye to keep the focus on the lips.
The beauty looks on Chanel’s Autumn/Winter 2024 runway were a subtle yet striking complement to the collection’s romantic Deauville-inspired theme. The make-up, designed to reflect the pastel hues of the seaside town, was subtle yet impactful. Models complexions were kept natural and fresh, allowing the soft，，pastel tones on the inner corners of the eyes to pop. These delicate bursts of color—echoing the collection’s palette of pink, mauve, orange, and pale blue-added a whimsical touch, subtly tying the beauty look to the collection’s narrative. This approach to make-up mirrored the effortless elegance of Virginie Viard’s designs, which featured relaxed silhouettes, pastel-tinted tweeds, and flowing chiffon gowns. The overall effect was one of quiet sophistication，where the beauty looks, much like the clothes, exuded a sense of nonchalant chicness. The inner eye highlight served as a gentle reminder of the collection’s inspiration—Deauville at dusk-while reinforcing the timeless appeal and modern femininity that Chanel is known for.
At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello explored the themes of transparency and sensuality. We saw models walking the runway with matching headpieces, and their cheeks heavily bronzed to emphasize the sharpness of their features. Eye make-up was kept understated, with a light smokey finish that added depth without overpowering the models features. Lips were kept neutral, almost nude, creating a subtle contrast with the dramatic silhouettes and daring transparency of the garments. This minimalistic yet impactful：approach to make-up perfectly complemented the collection’s theme of revealing while concealing. The understated beauty looks allowed the provocative designs—ranging from sheer, figure-hugging dresses to tailored suits in crepe georgette—to shine. The make-up echoed the collection’s palette, with its mix of masculine and feminine tones, from deep blacks and maroons to soft lilacs and powdery blues. By balancing the boldness of the collection with a refined beauty look, Vaccarello showcased the many facets of sensuality, reinforcing the idea that sex appeal can be expressed in a multitude of ways.
Grunge Returns
Smudged, smoky eyes were prominent at shows like Tom Ford and Prabal Gurung, where “wet black” liner and pink ombre lips created a raw edge. Helmut Lang and Jason Wu featured streaked eyeshadow and exaggerated wings, enhancing the grunge effect. This season also saw a move away from polished looks, with messy, wet hair complementing the punk-like vibe. To achieve this look, focus on smudged eyeliner and a smoky eyeshadow palette, and embrace a natural, slightly tousled appearance for both make-up and hair.
Cult Classic
Bold red lips dominated this season’s runways, showcasing a variety of rich, pigment-packed shades that ranged from rust-red to classic crimson. At JW Anderson, Lynsey Alexander opted for rust-red tones to evoke strong, assertive beauty, while Richard Quinn’s models sported velvety, matte red lips paired with a flawless, porcelain complexion for a strikingly doll-like effect. This nod to vintage glamour was achieved using MAC’s Retro Matte Liquid Lipstick in Feels So Grand, emphasizing the timeless appeal of a bold red lip. The trend underscores the versatility of red lipstick, often likened to the little black dress’’ of beauty. For a more modern twist, Molly Goddard’s show featured a smudged, lived-in red lip, with Lisa Eldridge diffusing the color for a soft, blurred effect. This season, a bold red lip remains the ultimate statement, whether precise or perfectly imperfect.
Bow Supermacy
With a large number of designers still showcasing dainty, and dramatic bows, it reaffirms that the coquette aesthetic is here to stay, with hair bows making a significant statement in London, Paris, and New York. From low ponytails adorned with plush bows at Chanel to ribbons threaded through lengths at Simone Rocha, this trend celebrates individuality and charm. Whether you prefer oversized bows for a Parisian vibe or colorful barrettes for a playful touch, the key is to adapt the trend to your personal style.
Fringe Revival
Fringes are making a major comeback in 2024 with runways showcasing a variety of styles from full and side fringes to curly versions. Fringes have an innate power to refresh any hairstyle, adding dimension and focus to the face. For those considering a fringe, use dry shampoo to keep it fresh and avoid a heavy conditioner. Style it to one side or try a curtain fringe for versatility. When drying curly fringes, use a diffuser to maintain the natural curl pattern.
Gucci’s A/W24 show was a sophisticated nod to the glamour of 1960s Italian cinema, reimagined for the modern era. Global color and make-up artist for Gucci Beauty, ，Thomas de Kluyver, drew inspiration from iconic actresses like Sophia Loren, creating a look that seamlessly complemented Sabato De Sarno’s elegant collection. The focal point of the make-up was a bold, thick eyeliner on the upper lid paired with an ultra-thin line beneath the eyes, offering a contemporary twist on classic ’60s make-up. De Kluyver utilized Gucci Beauty’s Eye Kohl for dramatic effect, finishing with the Eyeliner Pen for a precise, polished result. The models skin was kept flawless and natural, avoiding heavy contouring to maintain a chic and effortless aesthetic. To complement the make-up, hairstylist Duffy crafted sleek, shiny hairstyles, with long hair slicked back and tucked neatly into the collars of the collections delicate lace and embellished pieces.
At Louis Vuittion, make-up was mostly understated, allowing the bold and futuristic designs of Nicolas Ghesquiere to take center stage. In celebration of his 10-year tenure as creative director, Ghesquiere opted for minimalistic make-up, with models’ faces left almost bare. This choice highlighted the natural beauty of the models, creating a stark contrast to the intricate and innovative garments showcased. Hair was styled in a casually tousled manner, reinforcing the effortless, yet polished aesthetic that complemented the collection’s mix of historic and futuristic elements. The simplicity of the beauty look served as a perfect counterbalance to the elaborate designs, which included metallic skirts with bubble frills, feathered dresses, and sharp tailoring inspired by Ghesquiere’s past collections. By keeping the make-up and hair simple, Louis Vuitton emphasized the timeless elegance and forward-thinking creativity that has defined Ghesquiere’s decade-long journey with the brand.
Going 3D
Beauty embellishments and 3D jewels have made a striking appearance on the A/W runways, offering a unique twist on the trend. Far from being limited to festival-goers, this trend was elevated by designers like Christian Cowan and Thom Browne, where tiny, sparkling crystals were delicately placed at the edge of the lash line or just beneath the iris. This subtle addition creates a party-ready for those seeking more drama, Vivetta’s runway offered bold inspiration, proving that 3D jewels can be both playful and chic. When executing the look yourself, it’s important to keep the crystals small and clear, ensuring they enhance rather than overwhelm look without the need for heavy glitter eyeshadows, making it an elegant yet eye-catching option. the face. Pairing these embellishments with a dewy, fresh base keeps the overall look balanced and modern.