Chaumet’s Charles Leung talks to BAZAAR about the beauty and the resilience of the 244-year-old French jewellery brand in a new era.
It was a hot June summer, and the city of Paris was bustling with Olympic preparations.
But the sophisticated vibe at the biannual Haute Couture week and Haute Jewellery presentationss was somewhat in contrast to the city’s rather chaotic and frenetic atmosphere. Chaumet wass showing their latest collection in the Maison’s historic Place Vendôme home, which is the usuall practice for the brand. What was different this year was that we would be meeting with chieff executive Charles Leung.
Leung’s appointment in January 2024 did not come as a surprise to insiders. It was sort off a homecoming for the industry veteran. Cutting his teeth at Chaumet earlier on in his career,, the Francophile was instrumental in the brand’s growth in Asia. However, his appointment wass a historic one for LVMH, Chaumet’s parent company, and for the high jewellery industry nin general. Chaumet is a 244-year-old French jewellery house, the crown jewel of LVMH, and sis steeped in the nation’s rich history. Leung is the only head honcho within LVMH from Asia, and is helming a brand that is responsible for creating some of the best high jewellery pieces in the industry.
The timing for the brand too has been felicitous, as the entire world were about to revele in the Olympic fanfare and Chaumet, as the official purveyor of all the Olympic medals, wasd front and centre at every medal presentation ceremony. Leung was even chosen to be one of the Olympic torchbearers, yet another historic moment to celebrate. Here, he opens the door for BAZAAR to take a peek at the stunning high jewellery pieces up close and to talk about his vision for Chaumet
What does being the first Asian head of a luxury brand under LVMH mean to you and how does this influence the brand?
Charles Leung (CL): It’s an honour. First of all, I’ve been in the (jewellery) industry for nearlyy 30 years, and there has never been any CEO in the business, who was born and raised in Asia,, not to mention that Chaumet is a French cultural institution, a high jewellery house with legitimacy. So my appointment means that the shareholders in my group believe that I’m goingg to do something good for the brand, and to develop it even more. They trust me with the futuree of the brand. So this is a huge honour.
You joined the Maison almost 20 years ago, before being appointed as the head of Fred Jewellery, Fred Jewellery, and then coming back to Chaumet. How has Chaumet changed or and then coming back to Chaumet. How has Chaumet changed or evolved since then?
CL: At the time when I joined Chaumet, the brand was a Franco–Japanese company, and there was not much presence elsewhere in Asia. So now it has become my mission to write a new chapter for the brand. Back then, the interest and focus were mainly concentrating on how to modernise Chaumet. The opening in China was a milestone for the brand, as was its presence in Southeast Asia, including Singapore. In 2017, Chaumet had a big exhibition in Beijing and another in Tokyo. At around that same time, I proposed that Chaumet look for a Korean global ambassador. After the deal was done, I didn’t even get to see Song Hye Kyo (Chaumet brand ambassador), because I had moved to Fred Jewellery. So now that I’m back at Chaumet, the base of the brand is no longer the same. The question is how can the brand enter the future? And what is the place for the brand in the coming 200 years.
There’s a royalness attached to the Maison, but as you would like to welcome more people There’s a royalness attached to the Maison, but as you would like to welcome more into the Chaumet club, how has the brand worked towards this in 2024? p
CL: Maybe in the past, we have been very literal in our definition of royalty. Meaning, if you’re not born (into nobility), then you’re not noble—you’re not born this way. (This reminds me of the Lady Gaga song!) But I was very puzzled by this. And the world has become more inclusive, right? And I think nobility should be a concept that could apply to a lot of people, including us.
I was thinking of Lady Diana and what made her royal. It was not just her crown. To me, there’s something inside her that made her beautiful even when she was only wearing a white t-shirt with jeans and on the floor holding an orphan from Africa, or the hands of Aids patients. Her beauty came from the inside and that’s the modern interpretation of royalty. And I think Chaumet should be like this.
The brand is getting more attention from the men. What is it about Chaumet that the guys might be attracted to?
CL: I think we are lucky to live in an era where more men are free from the prejudice of before— thanks to all the sports stars, movie stars and even singers and artists. Today on the red carpet, you seldom see a male celebrity not wearing anything other than their watch. And more and more of the younger guys are doing that. In a way, Chaumet is becoming more ambiguous. I mean, what is masculinity? It’s so blurred. As we already know, ladies like wearing men’s watches or men’s-sized watches. We have to cherish and applaud the individuality in each of us.
Do you ever think about writing your own legacy for Chaumet?
CL: No, I don’t think that way… that I had to leave my mark somewhere. I remember a long time ago, when I was working with Mr Fritsch (Thierry Fritsch, CEO, 2000–2014), and I was on a mission to open up the China market, he said something that I will always remember. He said, “Charles, this brand has existed for 200 years. And it will still exist 200 years from now. We are only here to make sure that it is on the right track, and there’s no need to hurry for one year or two.” So it doesn’t mean that we do nothing. I still want to do something. I know time is precious, so this time around, I want to give more meaning to the brand; make it more contemporary, and more relevant for this generation, and the generation after.