Silhouette timeline
A person can be easily identified by their silhouette. Likewise, throughout history, the silhouette of a garment can be a good indicator of the date it was worn. To create a simple version of a timeline, imagine the silhouettes of garments seen from the distance as a series of geometric shapes like circles, ovals, domes and triangles. How does the garment’s silhouette relate to these shapes? Is the silhouette narrow and tubular with an oval on top, c.1800, or a small upside-down triangle on top of a very wide-based triangle, as seen in an 1850s crinoline? Is the skirt dome-shaped, 1840, or flat at the front and falling to a low triangle at the back, 1880? Having a quick reference of the overall shape can guide further research into fashion nuances in the proposed decade.
Figure 4.4a Silhouette timeline 1750–1860. Author.
See figures 4.4a and b, for an example of a timeline for garment silhouettes showing, in a simplified geometric format, the evolution in shape of bodice and skirt silhouettes from 1750 to 1950. The upper row of shapes represents the front facing view of the person and the lower row the side profile view. The red line shows the position of the natural waistline and is a quick reference of whether the bodice ends above, on, or below the waist. Sometimes the waist on the silhouette is above the natural waistline, see 1800 and 1820, and sometimes in a natural position but with the point at the centre front of the bodice extending below the waist as seen in garments from 1790 and 1840.
Figure 4.4b Silhouette timeline 1870–1950. Author.
How to relate the construction of a garment to the timeline silhouettes
A quick overview of a garment’s silhouette can be seen by placing the garment flat and viewing from above. The outline of the bodice and skirt can then be compared to the silhouettes seen in the timeline. See figures 4.5a, b and c, for examples of the technique.
Figure 4.5a Pale blue silk dress. The short bodice and triangular skirt with heavy hem decoration are all indicative of a dress from the 1820s. The puffed sleeves confirm the date. © Dress c.1825–28, The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham, England. Silhouette © Author.
Figure 4.5b Purple silk dress. By the 1830s the bodice, was longer, extending to just above the natural waist and skirts were even wider. The narrower sleeves suggest the later 1830s when the overexaggerated puff sleeves seen in the early 1830s were in decline. © Dress c.1836–40, The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham, England. Silhouette © Author.
Figure 4.5c Blue wool dress. The short bodice and long, slim silhouette is indicative of a dress from c.1910. © Dress c.1911, Fashion Museum Bath. Silhouette © Author.
Summary
The most likely date a garment was worn is the date when the images on the storyboard and the shape seen in the silhouette timeline match the construction details seen in the actual garment. It is the proportion of the bust, waist and hips that are the key indicators of the date a garment was worn, with the length and width of the skirt and shape of the sleeves additional tools to refine the date.
Analysis of the ‘storyboard’ images will highlight the areas of the female body most fashionable at the time and the silhouette timeline will show the profile of the garments when worn.
When displaying any garment, capturing its ‘moment in time’ is essential and an appreciation of its silhouette is one of the quickest ways to do this. Understanding a garment’s silhouette is a very useful guide to the shape of mannequin or bust form needed for display. However, always remember that for a complete interpretation of the silhouette, and for a definitive date, it will be essential to also research the date of the sleeve shapes as these can change considerably from the beginning to the end of a decade. The easiest way to do this is to look at as many images as possible of dated garments in books or museum websites. You will then see the pattern of change through each decade.
NOTE
1. Images in the sources discussed are generally available free of charge for personal research, but always check the copyright information.