Sleeve supports: Arms When using a bust form arms will be needed to support the garment sleeves. A simple two-piece pattern can be used to create a basic arm shape representing an arm in a relaxed natural position. The pattern is an adaptation from a tailored jacket sleeve. It can be easily adjusted to different…
STITCHING 1. Zigzag stitch the cut edges along the top and at either end of the length of calico to secure the edges and prevent them from fraying. 2. Turn up 3-centimetre hem along the selvedge and machine stitch a 2-centimetre channel for the steel at the bottom of the petticoat. On the inside of…
Net petticoats Stitching the gathered net to a narrow cotton tape waistband is a good way to control the gathers at the top around the mannequin waist (see figures 8.9 and 8.10). Use a wide zigzag machine stitch over the gathering to attach it to the tape. Leave an extra 2 centimetres of tape at…
Straight base petticoat method Cut a 1.75-metre length of 1–1.5 centimetre-wide cotton tape and thread it through the waist channel. Pull it tightly to fit the waist of the bust form. Decide on the hem circumference of the petticoat and cut two lengths of cotton-covered petticoat steel the finished circumference plus 15 centimetres. Insert the…
Tissue paper templates Tissue paper templates are a quick way to take patterns of garments with a simple construction or to get an idea of the shape of a particular area of a garment when a full toile is not needed. For example, a garment where the size of the body can be accurately assessed…
‘Draping‘ method As with the ‘join the dots’ method, safely supporting the garment with tissue paper puffs and rolls also remains the essential starting point when using the draping method. This method too requires developing a light touch. In order to gain confidence when manipulating the muslin, it is good to practise this technique first…
‘Join the dots‘ method This method is the most time-consuming and will take practice to achieve perfection as many measurements are needed. The pattern can be drafted directly on to the pattern paper alongside the garment. Choose a panel and locate the position of its straight grain, the warp of the fabric. If the fabric…
Tools for taking a pattern from a garment As well as an appropriate tape measure, (see Chapter 5), a selection of the tools shown in figure 7.12 will be needed when making patterns. Figure 7.12 Useful tool for making patterns and toiles. © Images Author Photography Peter Greenland 1. Set squares, small and large –…
The straight grain In order to make a toile of any garment, the most essential thing to understand is the importance of the straight grain on the fabric from which it is made. Each panel of the garment will have its own straight grain and it is their relationships to each other that create the…
Patterns and Toiles Taking patterns of historic dress and making toiles is a complex and timeconsuming process which you will need to practise in order to perfect. However, it is well worth the effort as it is an excellent way to reduce the number of times a garment needs to be tried on when customizing…