Measuring historic garments
Measuring historic garments needs great care. Fabrics can be fragile and stitching weak, so developing a light touch is essential. When measuring the bodice there is much debate over whether to take measurements from the inside or outside. When creating a mannequin to display a garment it is, wherever possible, best to take measurements from the inside of the garment, as this would have been the closest fit to the body of the original wearer. It is always advisable to try and measure the complete circumference of the bust, waist and hips but if this is impossible it will be necessary to measure each section of the bodice separately. When collating these measurements care should be taken to ensure that when their values are added together the total measurement does not become too large. Even a millimetre addition to each panel on a bodice with eight panels can actually create a measurement 8 millimetres too big.
Always measure each part of a garment at least twice. For complete accuracy it may be necessary to measure three or four times. The first measurement may be very inaccurate but by repeatedly measuring it is possible to assess the most likely correct measurement. Measuring is a complex skill but with practice it is possible to obtain greater dexterity and accuracy.
When taking measurements from a garment to create or purchase a mannequin, it is always better to err on the side of the smaller measurements. In this way there will be less likelihood of buying a mannequin that is too big. Padding can always be added later to subtly adjust the shape of a smaller torso but one that is too large will be useless.
Tips for accurate measuring
If your garment has an attached inner waist tape, this is a good indicator of the waist position. When the tape is fastened around the mannequin waist the bottom edge of the tape will sit around the actual waistline (see figure 5.11). With a wide waist tape this is very important.
If your garment has a collar that fits closely around the neck, this can be helpful when measuring the back neck to waist length. Measure from where the bottom edge of the collar is attached to the back neck of the bodice at the centre back (see figure 5.11). The seam around the neck on the outer covering of a bust form can be confusing as this is not the neckline position on a garment. By hanging something around the neck of the bust form, the actual position of the neckline can be seen. This is usually above the seam at the centre back (see figure 5.12). This looks incongruous but the neck on bust forms is usually slightly straighter than on a human body. By positioning the neck on the bust form slightly higher at the back, a better fit can be obtained.
The bust point on a tight fitted bodice with waist darts is not the top of the darts. As previously mentioned, it is usually 1–2 centimetres above the point of the darts (see figure 5.13).
Figure 5.11 The yellow arrow indicates where to take the centre back neck to waist measurement on the bodice above. It is measured from the bottom of the purple collar lining to the bottom of the waist tape attached at the centre back waist. Bodice courtesy of the Hurry family. Photography Robbie Pettigrew.
Figure 5.12 Measuring the centre back on a bust form. The position of the ‘nape of the neck’ is not the seam around the neck of the form. The cord hung around the neck is the more accurate location. © Author. Photography Robbie Pettigrew.
Figure 5.13 In this dress from the 1830s the bust point is situated just above (1–2 cm) the top point of the waist darts. © The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham, England. Photography Robbie Pettigrew.
Summary
It is impossible to overstate the importance of developing accurate measuring skills when preparing mannequins to display garments. Put simply, if your measurements are wrong then the garment can never fit correctly, look authentic and be ‘of its time’. Using incorrect measurements could result in the need for many more fittings, which would cause unnecessary stress and strain to fragile historic garments, increasing the risk of potential damage. Practice, as always, gives perfection and by continuously measuring garments you will eventually get a ‘feel’ for when a measurement is correct.
It is also very important to develop a ‘light touch’ when taking measurements. It is very easy to forget this and push down into the garment whilst concentrating on the act of measuring, crushing delicate fabrics, beading or surface decoration underneath. Placing a layer of polyester wadding covered with a sheet of acid-free tissue paper on the surface underneath a heavily decorated garment will cushion the decoration and reduce the risk of breaking any fragile beads or sequins under the area being measured.
Although a complex skill, with practice, being able to take accurate measurements will greatly boost confidence and reduce the amount of time needed when customizing display forms for any garment.
NOTES
1. The decade 1960–70 was labelled the ‘Swinging Sixties’ because of the rise in youth culture, which introduced a revolution in social attitudes to clothing, sexuality and the accepted social order.
2. Lycra: elastic polyurethane fibre or fabric used especially for close-fitting sports clothing. The Oxford English Reference Dictionary, second edition, Oxford University Press, 1996.