Isla Bastimentos
The second largest island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago, Isla Bastimentos is dominated by the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park, which includes jungle-backed beaches with powdery white sand and the pristine coral formations just off-shore. Bastimentos is much more relaxed than Bocas Town, with just one small creole town of 200 called Old Bank on the western corner of the island, a 15-minute boat ride from Isla Colón. There are a few basic hostels in town, though many come to stay at more isolated resorts like the Red Frog Beach Club (www.redfrogbeach.com) or Tranquilo Bay (www.tranquilobay.com). The nearest beach to Old Bank is Wizard Beach, a short walk away and a beginner surf spot, though Red Frog Beach is much better and can easily be reached on a day trip from Bocas Town. The only other communities on Bastimentos are at Bahía Honda and Salt Creek Village, home to Ngäbe people and one nice resort, La Loma Jungle Lodge (www.thejunglelodge.com), which has its own cacao farm.
Kuna Yala women.
Robert Harding
The national park extends 12,950 hectares (32,000 acres), most of which cover the reefs, which are notable for their wealth of coral species, fish, and marine invertebrates that range from healthy populations of Elkhorn coral to spotted eagle rays. Leatherback turtles and hawksbill turtles, among others, nest on the 5.6km-long (3.5 miles) Playa Larga on the northern shore. The Zapatilla Cays, named for their resemblance to footprints, are uninhabited inlets with turquoise waters and swaying palms, widely regarded as the best beaches in Bocas.
Other islands
Off the southern end of Isla Bastimentos is Crawl Cay, about 30 minutes by boat from Bocas Town. The shallow water surrounding the cay is home to soft and hard coral that make it a favorite of divers and snorkelers. Additionally, there are two simple restaurants on the cay, making it a popular day trip.
South of Isla Colón is Isla Cristóbal, one of the larger islands in the archipelago. While the island itself is of little interest, an enclosed bay, Laguna Bocatorito, is a breeding site for bottlenose dolphins. They are best seen from June to September, when they often swim right up to the boats.
Comarca Kuna Yala
The semi-autonomous Indigenous province of the Kuna Yala, sometimes referred to as the San Blas archipelago, is a paradisiacal place consisting of 350 of the Caribbean’s most spectacular small islands and cays. Many of the islands are just a strip of powdery white sand backed by a few palm trees and ringed with untouched coral reefs. This is the home of the Kuna who have maintained their cultural identity and control all aspects of tourism to the islands.
Despite the spectacular setting, the Kuna have not allowed mass tourism to permeate the islands. There are no five-star lodges here, just rustic bungalows that lack modern amenities. Even getting hold of them is difficult. Still, with the ability to take quick flights from Panama City to several islands or drive in a short amount of time into the Comarca on the El Llano–Cartí road and take a boat, the effort to reach the region is not nearly as difficult as it once was.
Isla El Porvenir and the west
El Porvenir is the base for the western half of the Comarca Kuna Yala ⁄ [map] . The most regular flights to the region from Panama City land on the tiny airstrip here. There’s a small museum and government offices, although little else other than the experience of immersing yourself in Kuna life. Hotel El Porvenir (www.hotelporvenir.com) offers rooms just beside the airstrip, though there are better, more expensive accommodations on nearby islands, such as Cabañas Narasgandup (www.sanblaskunayala.com). Many travelers catch a boat elsewhere as soon as they land or simply take day trips.
An islet in the Comarca Kuna Yala.
Shutterstock
Tiny Isla Hierba has the closest good beach to El Porvenir, while for snorkeling, Isla Perro – with a sunken boat off shore – is better. Not much farther out you come to Isla Pelicano, which has a white sandy beach. Many of the lodges near El Porvenir will include transportation to these islands in their rates.
The stunning chain of cays called the Cayos Holandéses has the best marine life in the area, although they’re 20km (13 miles) away. They have few amenities and the 1.5-hour boat ride each way can be expensive for solo travelers.
The Eastern Comarca
Less visited than the west, the eastern half of the Comarca Kuna Yala is more remote and has been more westernized. Air Panama flights from Panama City go to Achutupu, Corazón de Jesús, and Playón Chico, but only sporadically, and without a yacht there’s little other way of getting there. Some of the better accommodations in the region can be found here, however, such as Yandup Island Lodge (www.yandupisland.com). Still, the marine life in this region is quite good, with some of the highest concentrations of coral in Panama.