Comparing garment measurements to a body, mannequin or bust form
The historic garment exists and a body needs to be created to fit inside it for display purposes. This could be an adapted mannequin or bust form (tailor’s garment stand) or a bespoke creation. For a successful result it is very important to understand not only how the measurements of the garment relate to the human body but also to a mannequin or bust form.
The following drawings and photographs compare the relative positions of the bust and waist on a female body, a bust form and the bodice of a dress.
HUMAN BODY OR FULL FIGURE MANNEQUIN
On the body the bust measurement is taken around the body at the fullest part of the bust at the level of the nipple, referred to as the ‘bust point’.
BUST FORM
On the bust form there is no obvious bust point so the bust is measured around the form over the widest part of the bust at the front, continuing horizontally around the back parallel to the ground.
GARMENT
On a garment the positions of darts are good indicators of where to measure the bust. Darts in the front bodice originating at the waist take away excess fabric from under the bust. The position of the bust point is usually 1–2 centimetres above the point of the waist darts. On a garment this can usually be seen as a slight depression above the end of the darts (see figures 5.7 and 5.13).
Figure 5.5a and b Sketch of a female body and a photograph of bust form with red lines indicating the positions of: (g) bust; (i) waist; (j) top hip; and (k) hip. The blue arrows indicate the corresponding positions. © Drawing author, courtesy of Historic Royal Palaces. Bust form photo Robbie Pettigrew.
Figure 5.6 Diagram of the inside of a dress c.1830 showing the position of the bustline (g) and waist (i) marked in red. © Author, courtesy of Historic Royal Palaces.
Figure 5.7 Photograph of the inside of a jacket bodice from c.1875. The upper red line shows the position of the bustline (g) and the lower, the waistline (i). The position of the waistline is clearly indicated by the ‘V’ at the centre front and the bottom edge of the waist tape at the centre back. Jacket © The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham, England. Photography Robbie Pettigrew.
Using a measurement chart
A measurement chart enables measurements to be taken from a garment and recorded in a way that can be easily communicated from one person to another, with both people knowing exactly where the measurements have been taken. Sometimes it is also helpful to add other reference points that will enable the person seeing the measurements for the first time to understand what exactly is being measured. This is extremely important when working with a remote mannequin manufacturer.
When using a measurement chart space can also be allocated for information about any padding or underpinnings (corset or petticoats) needed to customize the shape of the mannequin or bust form to fit the garment (see figure 5.8).
Annotating a photograph with measurement is another efficient way of visually communicating measurements from one person to another. This is extremely useful when you are working with a mannequin or bust form manufacturer creating a new figure. Adaptations are much easier to understand if there is a visual reference for any changes alongside the measurements.
Drawing programmes available for iPads or tablets are also a good way to visually record measurements. The illustration, figure 5.9, uses a first-generation iPad, a simple stylus and early Penultimate™ program. Much more sophisticated programs are now available but even this simple version saves a lot of time and guesswork.
Figure 5.8 Sample measurement chart listing basic measurements with space below for additional measurements specific to the garment. © Author. See Appendix for a sample garment measuring chart.
Figure 5.9 iPad notes for a 1920s tennis dress (measurements in inches). © Author. Dress courtesy of Tullie, Carlisle.
Tools for measuring
When tailors began to make patterns they needed a way to record a client’s measurements. In the eighteenth century measurements were written on strips of parchment.
Nowadays we have many different varieties of flexible measuring tapes and steel rules in both centimetres and inches. Some types are more suited to a specific measuring task than others. Retractable steel tape measures should never be used for measuring garments but are very useful for measuring lengths and heights of mannequins and garment stands. A 2 centimetre-wide flexible measuring tape is good for taking measurements of mannequins and garment stands and for length measurements on garments, but for measuring small seams, curved armholes and necklines a narrow, 1 centimetre-wide, tape measure is much easier to control and allows greater accuracy to be achieved (see figure 5.10, 1). If your garment is very fragile, using a strong, buttonhole-type thread or a linen quilting thread to measure the curved seams inside a garment can be a good option. Put a pin through a knot at one end of the thread and into the start of a seam then lay the thread along the seam. Care should be taken not to stretch the thread. Mark the other end of the seam with another pin through the thread. Lay the thread flat and measure between the pins. This can be a very accurate method but practice is needed to perfect the technique.
Tape measures and their uses
1. A narrow tape measure for measuring inside garments. Being narrow makes it easier to manipulate around curved seams than a wider tape. The example shown is tape measure No. 2 with the metal end removed and then cut in half lengthways. Small retractable tape measures are also available 1 centimetre wide and when removed from their casing are very useful for measuring curved seams.
2. A good general tape measure but safer for using on fragile historic dress if the metal clasp on the end is removed. (After removing the clasp check that the measurement of the first centimetre or inch under the clasp is accurate as sometimes the end is not cut straight.)
3. A wider tape measure would be good for measuring larger garments, garment lengths and mannequins or bust forms. It will sit flatter against the garment and hang straighter than the narrow tape measure.
4. This flexible but slightly thicker, medium-width tape measure is good for making patterns but should not be used on historic garments as the metal end has a rivet that could catch on fabrics.
5. A tape measure that closes with a metal press stud should not be used on fragile garments as the press stud could catch on delicate fabrics.
6. A rigid metal tape measure should never be used on a garment but is very good for measuring the height of your garment stand or mannequin. Its rigidity makes this process much easier. It can also be used laid alongside a train or shawl to measure the length but should never be laid on top of a textile.
Practice measuring with many different types of tape measures to find your preferred version.
Figure 5.10 Different types of tape measures and their uses. © Author. Photography Peter Greenland.