Chanel’s autumn/winter 2024 collection is a dreamlike escape to Deauville, where past and present intertwine. A haven of fresh coastal air and unbridled inspiration, it was here that Gabrielle Chanel first challenged the rigid conventions of fashion, pioneering a new era in the industry. Her visionary spirit, ignited by the Deauville lifestyle, birthed a legacy of refined distinction. The collection unfolds as a cinematic narrative, inspired by the French coast’s captivating charm.
Virginie Viard’s vision for the collection is a graceful blend of masculine and feminine, a duality that echoes the androgynous allure of David Bowie. The result is both strong and tender, with silhouettes that are fluid and inviting. Viard has masterfully reinvented Chanel’s design language, creating a collection that resonates with the spirit of a new era.
The show itself was an immersive cinematic experience that transported guests to the heart of Deauville. Giant screens enveloped the runway, broadcasting ethereal images of women strolling along a boardwalk bathed in the soft glow of dawn. This visual poetry, coupled with a subtle, ambient soundtrack, created a serene and sophisticated atmosphere, evoking the tranquillity of a leisurely day by the sea.
At the heart of the collection lies a masterful interplay of classic Chanel codes and contemporary sensibilities. Tweed suits, a house signature, are reimagined with a modern twist, featuring box-pleated skirts and cropped trousers. These foundational pieces are juxtaposed with the youthful vitality of chunky knit jumpers adorned with evocative Deauville landscapes. Infusing a touch of nautical romance, silk blouses punctuated by sailor collars and chevrons add a playful dimension. The collection culminates in ethereal evening gowns and jumpsuits, their fluid movement reminiscent of ocean waves, creating a dreamlike counterpoint to the collection’s overall structure.
Culottes and drop-front trousers lend a relaxed sophistication, while broad-shouldered peacoats provide a structured counterpoint. Low-cut tops with flounces add a touch of feminine allure, balancing the collection’s androgynous undertones. The collection also pays homage to the nautical influences that have shaped the luxury brand’s aesthetic. Sailor-inspired elements, such as chunky jumpers and middy collars, are reinterpreted for a contemporary audience.
Classic Chanel accessories elevate the looks. Pastel-hued wide-brimmed hats, a nod to the house’s millinery heritage, have become a signature element. A particular highlight was the inclusion of thigh-high sheepskin boots, evoking the allure of cinematic icons like Anouk Aimée.
The collection’s colour palette draws inspiration from Deauville’s ever-changing skies, a romantic blend of shades. A spectrum of pinks, from the softest blush to the boldest fuchsia, is counterbalanced by the calming influence of azure blues and mauves. Unexpected pops of orange inject a warm energy, saturated with grounding tones of brown and gold, creating a rich and luxurious aesthetic.
Viard’s autumn/winter 2024 collection is a poetic ode to Deauville, a dreamlike tapestry woven with layers, volumes and colours that capture the essence of this famed locale. A captivating reinterpretation of the Parisian house’s heritage, the line-up seamlessly melds enduring codes with modern flair, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion landscape.