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Tools for taking a pattern from a garment As well as an appropriate tape measure, (see Chapter 5), a selection of the tools shown in figure 7.12 will be needed when making patterns. Figure 7.12 Useful tool for making patterns and toiles. © Images Author Photography Peter Greenland 1. Set squares, small and large –…
The straight grain In order to make a toile of any garment, the most essential thing to understand is the importance of the straight grain on the fabric from which it is made. Each panel of the garment will have its own straight grain and it is their relationships to each other that create the…
Patterns and Toiles Taking patterns of historic dress and making toiles is a complex and timeconsuming process which you will need to practise in order to perfect. However, it is well worth the effort as it is an excellent way to reduce the number of times a garment needs to be tried on when customizing…
If the cotton jersey is to be the visible cover at the neck, tuck the excess jersey inside the neck of the bust form and replace the wooden finial (neck cap) supplied by the manufacturer. Alternatively, a fabric cover can be made by cutting a disc of acid-free card to the size of the neck…
MAKING A TOP COVER FOR A TORSO TO DISPLAY A SYMMETRICAL DRESS If the bust form has a very small waist and a full bust, leaving one side seam open 10–15 centimetres above and below the waist can make removing the cover easier (see figure 6.27). This would be especially useful for a mid–late nineteenth-century…
RAISING THE WAISTLINE When displaying a dress with a short bodice, or a separate bodice and skirt, it is essential to have the hip padding at the correct height to support the skirt and maintain the correct position of the waistline (see figure 6.16). Without firm support around the hips the skirt could slip down,…
Stitching The most common stitch used when applying polyester wadding is ‘herringbone stitch’ (see figure 6.8). It is used to attach layers of wadding to the form and to sculpt them into the desired shape. A curved needle is used for his purpose (see figure 6.9b). Figure 6.8 Herringbone stitch. © Author. Photography Peter Greenland….
If you are purchasing a torso for a fragile garment, often the best way to assess the size of bust form or mannequin required is to make a toile, a simplified replica, of your garment and try it on the proposed figure (see Chapter 7). Trying on fragile historic dress is always difficult and the…
Bust form or mannequin If this is not appropriate then it will be necessary to select an even smaller size torso. In this case it would be advisable to request a midriff measurement of the torso from the manufacturer before purchasing. An alternative, with a larger budget, would be a custommade figure. Another measurement that…
Selecting and Preparing a Mannequin or Bust Form T he selection of mannequins to display garments in an exhibition is influenced by many factors and you will have to consider each one in order to achieve the best result. Often the most difficult will be the aspirations of the exhibition designer. In order to create…