Net petticoats Stitching the gathered net to a narrow cotton tape waistband is a good way to control the gathers at the top around the mannequin waist (see figures 8.9 and 8.10). Use a wide zigzag machine stitch over the gathering to attach it to the tape. Leave an extra 2 centimetres of tape at…
Straight base petticoat method Cut a 1.75-metre length of 1–1.5 centimetre-wide cotton tape and thread it through the waist channel. Pull it tightly to fit the waist of the bust form. Decide on the hem circumference of the petticoat and cut two lengths of cotton-covered petticoat steel the finished circumference plus 15 centimetres. Insert the…
Tissue paper templates Tissue paper templates are a quick way to take patterns of garments with a simple construction or to get an idea of the shape of a particular area of a garment when a full toile is not needed. For example, a garment where the size of the body can be accurately assessed…
‘Draping‘ method As with the ‘join the dots’ method, safely supporting the garment with tissue paper puffs and rolls also remains the essential starting point when using the draping method. This method too requires developing a light touch. In order to gain confidence when manipulating the muslin, it is good to practise this technique first…
‘Join the dots‘ method This method is the most time-consuming and will take practice to achieve perfection as many measurements are needed. The pattern can be drafted directly on to the pattern paper alongside the garment. Choose a panel and locate the position of its straight grain, the warp of the fabric. If the fabric…
Tools for taking a pattern from a garment As well as an appropriate tape measure, (see Chapter 5), a selection of the tools shown in figure 7.12 will be needed when making patterns. Figure 7.12 Useful tool for making patterns and toiles. © Images Author Photography Peter Greenland 1. Set squares, small and large –…
The straight grain In order to make a toile of any garment, the most essential thing to understand is the importance of the straight grain on the fabric from which it is made. Each panel of the garment will have its own straight grain and it is their relationships to each other that create the…
Patterns and Toiles Taking patterns of historic dress and making toiles is a complex and timeconsuming process which you will need to practise in order to perfect. However, it is well worth the effort as it is an excellent way to reduce the number of times a garment needs to be tried on when customizing…
If the cotton jersey is to be the visible cover at the neck, tuck the excess jersey inside the neck of the bust form and replace the wooden finial (neck cap) supplied by the manufacturer. Alternatively, a fabric cover can be made by cutting a disc of acid-free card to the size of the neck…
MAKING A TOP COVER FOR A TORSO TO DISPLAY A SYMMETRICAL DRESS If the bust form has a very small waist and a full bust, leaving one side seam open 10–15 centimetres above and below the waist can make removing the cover easier (see figure 6.27). This would be especially useful for a mid–late nineteenth-century…